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November 23rd, 2009
A Saturday in Hakered!
June 2nd, 2009
Me and Daniel decided to take Malin and Sorana with us for some outside climbing, but I am not sure what happened, there were a lot of misunderstandings, mainly between me and Daniel as usual :P. We were supposed to go to Hållsunga, but Malin and another friend of her went out earlier to get some more climbing, and they called and reported that there were a lot of climbers there so we had to choose another place. The plan was to pick Malin up in Hakered, and then go somewhere else that I cant remember now. But once me,Daniel and Sorana joined Sofia and Malin, we decided to stay there.
The wall was perfectly shielded from the sun, the since the weather was great the sun was hot as hell, so this was a good place to spend the afternoon in the shadows of the trees.
Malin, Sofia and Sorana started working on a route called Aggresif (5c/6a) and me and Daniel went for a route called Baren (6b) as warm up. Daniel did a great job getting a top rope on Baren, and we started working on the moves on that route. The girls were working hard on Aggresif. And soon enough we had two top ropes so we could practice on the different routes.
All in all we climbed 3 routes, Aggresif (5c/6a pending on were you started), Baren (6b) and Villa Medusa (6b+), I found the routes really interesting and fun to climb, the whole wall had a little bit of a overhang so they were pretty intense, and I must say that Aggresif was really tough for that grade.
We had a really nice Saturday afternoon there and we probably will come back there again, the only problem I had was with the damn mosquito’s, god damn they chewed me up completely 
/S
Time for climbing!
May 28th, 2009
As it seem I am very bad at this, but I will try to step it up a bit.
We haven’t been climbing much lately, due to the fact that Daniel is on the road competing in road racing almost every weekend. I have been bouldering and so on my own, but it hasn’t been the same kind of climbing. However we seem to be back on track now, and I hope things will change a bit in the coming future.
The yoga is starting to pay off as well in my climbing and that feels great! I’m trying to do at least 3 yoga passes a week, and have one resting day from both climbing and yoga.
Anyway, yesterday after work I went with a friend of mine to Hyltebergen and according to him its the best sport climbing place in Gothenburg, now I haven’t seen that many places so far, but I must agree with him, this place was amazing! The rocks and the routes there are really really good.
We started of with a 6a+ route as warm up, no problems there, there was a short moment of rain when I started, and it was very windy, but we were pretty shielded at that rock from the wind so that was good, and the rain quickly went by us so no problems there either. After that we moved to another wall, and did some more warming up on a 6b+, pretty easy one I must say, but it was a fun route. Christian wanted to try his 7a project. Due to a finger damage last year he haven’t been able to finish it and this was the first time he was back there since his damage, so he was really psyched to get this over with. We went up a bit on the rock and found the wall, he worked his way up just marking the foot holds and various crimps. I was belaying him and was freezing my ass off, so when he came down I was going to top rope the route and have him guide me trough it just for his own sake, so he could memorize the route. I started off really good, the moves were pretty hard, he is a bit longer then me and could more easily reach some of the crimps, the cold went down my fingers after belaying Christian, so my fingers really really hurt a lot. I didn’t bother to finish it, I went up to the last crux then I was freezing to much so I went down. The week in Spain that Christian spent climbing 7a routes really payed off, he went up, and finished this one as it was a piece of cake, he did a really good job and looked very strong.
So after that he was happy and I was still freezing my ass off, but we decided to go for another one, and on the walk down to the other wall I worked up some heat, so once there I was good to go for real. This was another 7a+ route, laid back climbing, really special route, with a bit of over hang all the way up. For some reason laid back climbing seems to fit me perfectly.
The plan is to go back here with Daniel this weekend, this place was amazing, I hope I can get some more pictures now. Its kinda hard to take good ones when there is just the two of us (you kinda don’t want to let go of the rope to take a picture when you are belaying someone… 
).
Looking forward to Saturday and tomorrow I finally get my resting day.
/S
A long weekend…
May 5th, 2009
So I finally decided to take an extra day on this long weekend, I was supposed to be working on Friday but….i took the day off! :O
With this long weekend I thought we would have a few climbing days outside seeing as the weather was supposed to be really nice (and it was). However Daniel needed some time to practice and compete in his road racing, so we ended up only going out on Saturday.
For some reason we didn’t mange to leave Gothenburg until late on Saturday, we had a little problem deciding were to go, we thought about Aspen or Seglora, and we ended up going to Seglora. After a long drive we finally arrived, we choose to go to the Nya Berget wall.
At the wall we meet some people we had seen on Domen and they recognized us as well, they helped us decide on what route to try. We started off with Lenas led (6a), first up was Daniel, he lead climbed the complete route with a few brakes on the way up, it was pretty high 15-20m. After that we top roped the route for a while as warm up, it was a really fun route, but I must say it was pretty hard for its grade. At the end the route was pretty “dirty” as well, lots of gravel and crap. We had a lot of fun on it tough.
After that we took the other route next to this one called Henry (6a+), the other gang thought we should try it, since it had two really fun cruxes on it, one at the third bolt, and the other one at the top of the route. I started leading it but couldn’t reach the third bolt, the first crux was really challenging at first until you figured it out, so Daniel took over and managed to get past it. After that we spent the rest of the time on this route. The last crux was a really interesting move, you have to put your self in a position to be able to reach up and over an obstacle and hope you found the correct crimp to hang on to before you could move the left hand up in position. I liked this route a lot, but I found it pretty hard for its grade, but the again what do I know? 
Daniel seemed to be in good shape this Saturday he did some really nice lead climbing and climbing overall, me on the other hand, had a really bad day. Aside from the mental ghosts I seem to be having at this point, I also had to try to climb in my new shoes I bought earlier last week. Seeing I couldn’t find a good size I had to go down ½ of a size on some already really small shoes (Evolv Optimus Prime), if someone tells you that Evolv shoes are small, trust me they are right! God damn my feet was hurting like hell and I didn’t trust them at all. I had my old shoes with me so I tried using them as well, but the big hole on the left shoe made it hard to use them as well seeing as I jammed my big toe in to the rock a few times and it hurt like hell as well. So can anyone lend me a foot bath or something? I seriously need to break my new shoes in for real or I will go mental soon.
In normal fashion we both forgot our cameras, so no new pictures this time either. God we suck. Next time tough, next time!
Update!
April 27th, 2009
I have to say that I haven’t been climbing as much as I would like too the past few weeks, I know I haven been bad at updating this page.
I will try to get some new photos up as soon as possible.
Me and Daniel have been testing a new cool place called Gunnilse, a lot of fun climbing there, poorly bolted thou, but we manage to get a top rope going on the routes there. Theres a lot of fun routes there, pretty hard and the rocks are really sharp so your fingers hurts like hell after a climbing session there. We practice a lot on a route called Latissimus (6c), really fun climbing, we got some help on the crux so I am guessing we aren’t that far away from leading it completely, I managed to do the full route on a top rope. The route is better suited for longer people, so the crux is a bit tricky, I think I have it now thou, so next time im sure I can lead it all the way. Its a bit over hanging route as well in the start that makes it really fun!
Last time we were there we ran in to Eric a friend of mine who was there with his climbing partner they placed a top rope on a route called Triceps (7a), and I asked if I could try it, at first I thought id never make it up there, but I managed to hold on, rest at the right places, so I actually ended up doing that route “on sight”, it was an amazing feeling, it is really tricky at some parts but as long as you hold out on the cruxes and rest at the right places you can get up there pretty easy even thou its pretty long and sharp.
I have also started with the yoga, and I must say I had a lot of mixed feelings about doing it, but after yesterdays session im convinced that this is perfect for me. I could never Imagen that it would be so hard and exhausting, today every muscle in my body aces, its a good feeling. I am pretty sure I never will have any photos from that, seeing im as flexible at the moment as an elephant
Me and Daniel will do a lot of outdoor climbing this coming weekend and I will make sure I have my camera with me so we can get some more pictures from other places.
Today after work im going to do some bouldering at Domen, I really need to get my crap together and get started again after the past few weeks were I have been focusing a lot on my move.
/S
Bouldering., Indoor Climbing, Lead Climbing, Outdoor Climbing
Here it is!
April 14th, 2009
My new apartmet
——->klicky klick! <——–
I didnt have time to add them to this page. Oh well, and the pictures kind of suck, but you get the idea of how the place is built.
/S
Finally I am done!
April 13th, 2009
It took me a few days…
But now im all moved in to the new apartment, I also took the time during this weekend to fix the old apartment so I can leave that behind.
I haven’t had much time to do some climbing lately due to this move, but me and Daniel went out last Saturday. The weather was amazing, and we decided to head out to Utby again. We climbed Stopplikt and Hästudden a few times and it felt really good.
After a while we wanted to try something else, so we decided just for fun to try Batman (7b+ I think), now this wasn’t our most brilliant move ever, but oh well. I worked my way up as far as I could go before my damn shoes started to give me to much trouble. I got 4 quick draws in on the route I think. After that Daniel was up, he climbed up to my last bolt and at that point the route goes in two different directions, we weren’t sure at that point on the one we were going to take, so he tried them both. He managed to get one more quick draw in, and as he was about to place the second one, we slipped with his right foot and took a really nasty fall on 5m and hurt his elbow. After that the both of us were pretty shock up so we decided to just do some easy climbing just to get over it mentally.
Im glad to say thou that Daniel survived, i am not sure what I would do without you buddy 
Next time you will nail that clip!
Too bad we forgot the camera again this time, I will try to get some new pictures up soon, I will also post some pictures of the apartment as soon as I have the time to take them.
No training today, im to tired, I need to rest I think.
Out!
Moving day….
April 6th, 2009
…Is upon me!
I haven’t been doing much climbing the past few days, due to the fact that I am moving tomorrow (Finally!). I went to Domen last Friday on my own, I wanted to do some bouldering for a few hours, but my body wasn’t up for it. I felt really exhausted and my fingers hurt like hell, so I figured a good rest would do me good and I could focus on packing up my apartment.
Bad move…Saturday had the best weather this year, what a day, I managed to stay away from the rocks but damn I wanted to head out.
I am finished with the packing now, tomorrow I will be moving to the new apartment, it is going to be so sweet. I will put some pictures up of the apartment as soon as I am unpacked.
Once this is done I will have time again to focus on my climbing.
Indoor bouldering
April 2nd, 2009
OK I will have to take back what I said. Indoor bouldering is FUN!
Daniel decided to head down to Falkenberg for some road racing training, leaving me with no one to climb with (this isn’t really a problem, since there are a few people I know that hangs out in Domen that I normally could climb with as well). However I decided to go there to do some bouldering only, I wanted to solve the problems I have been working on.
The training session turned out way better then I expected when I arrived. Martin a guy I have become friends with was there to do some bouldering as well, and I decided to go with him.
As we were about to start I decided to talk to Daniel (I think his name is) who builds a lot of problems at Domen, and ask him about the problem I am working on (the yellow one) for a solution on a very hard move. So he and a another guy showed me how to do it, I tried the solution out a few times but I failed, however i am almost there now, once I have that the rest should be easy.
Daniel wanted to show us another new problem he made earlier that day, so we moved to that one and started it, really cool problem, and so it continued. Bouldering with people who know how to do it for real is really really fun. So they asked us to try another problem and of course we tried it, all really hard ones, but not impossible. I still need to work on my bouldering skills but the tips and pointers you get from this guys is really valuable.
Once they had to leave me and Martin went up on the top floor to do some bouldering up there, he showed me a problem someone put together using mixed grips, damn fun one but a really hard move, we worked on it that for a while until he also had to leave.
By that point I was tired my self so I decided to head home as well.
All in all I had a great evening, I made some new friends (Daniel, Malin and Johan?), I found some new problems and I got a new found respect for indoor bouldering. I guess it all comes down to how much you have been doing it, experience with seeing the problems and solutions in front of you etc.
I will for sure focus more on bouldering in the future, damn its fun!
Sucky training day..
March 28th, 2009
Todays training was bad, neither me or Daniel was in the mood to do some hard training.
We started off by climbing a few old routes, but after a while we just didn’t have the feel for it, so we decided to take a break and do some bouldering, I worked on one of my problems and Daniel was doing some of his, once we were done, we decided to do some more routes, we climbed a lot of old ones, we ended up lead climbing one of them as well, and that was fun as hell.
Once we were done with the climbing I didn’t want to give up, so I went back to the bouldering. I tried one of my problems that I have been working on for a long time, its the finishing move that gets me, its a long pull in to a really small crimp (You can see from the picutre, im aiming for the white grip with the black ducktape,thats were i need to go from this position), I manage the catch the crimp but once as I am about to move the other hand up there I keep falling down. Another problem I started working on is a yellow one, I have been going over it in my head during the week so as I was about to try it, I noticed I am not that flexible (hopefully the yoga will take care of that soon….) anyway, I managed to get the heel hook in, so all in all it was some progress on it.
I decided to take a few pictures. You can find them here